I may have been able to do that but it would have required sacrificing my love of English grammar and exposition.
i love when consumables are 50% off 2000 repair kits saves a lot of money long term
Fair. I am glad to see more WoT articles. Keep it up.
WoT follows the Rules of Aquisition to the letter.


While World of Tanks doesn’t let you transfer credits between accounts, there are ways to maximize credit earning and to minimize credit losses as well as untapped funds most of us are likely sitting on. Most of us are familiar with using Premium tanks and a Premium account but taking advantage of and planning ahead for specials and recouping funds from the depot are sometimes overlooked even by experienced players. A 60% win rate may make you a fantastic tanker, but it doesn’t make you an accountant.



At the most basic level the gold economy puts WoT in the territory of a two currency game. Gold can be transferred into XP and credits in various ways but there is no direct way to transfer credits into gold. Since gold represents real world cash, unless you’re spending regularly you’ll want to ensure you’re maximizing your gold efficiency wherever possible. In that case anything you can obtain for credits should be considered a potential waste of gold. If your gold supply is limited you’ll want to ensure you’re only paying gold for things that will or could stay with your account “forever” like tanks, garage slots, barracks slots, and camouflage for your favorite tanks. You should avoid spending gold on anything consumable like the appropriately named consumables, and ammunition. Avoid spending gold on anything that can be obtained through regular play like converting free XP or exchanging gold for regular credits. Of course these are less of a concern if you have a real cash budget for your gameplay. This also depends on where you set your irritation threshold. I’m in a position where I spend very little but if I’m selling a tank I’m not going to throw away a 500,000 credit shell rammer when I can de-mount it for a mere 10 gold.

Premium account time will also improve your credit earning dramatically as it gives a flat 50% bonus to your income. You can see what this would be in your battle summaries even if you don’t currently have a premium account running. You will be able to earn credits on tanks that only broke even normally and earn a great deal more on those that already gave you a positive income stream.


Most players maintain at least a small stable of credit farming vehicles. These are generally Tier 5 or 6 as they offer the best balance of income to repair and resupply cost, in general, for standard tanks. Depending on how good or bad you are and what you drive you can certainly lose credits in these tanks, though it takes real effort to do so in Tier 5. Tier 4 tanks or low tier premiums are also solid credit earners, but the low earning potential works against them.

If you are terrible and having a bad time every match, try driving an ELC AMX. It’s good practice for fast tanks and will help you train how not to vault your tank into the stratosphere. While the hull and suspension feel like they are crafted of Balsa wood it is pennies on the dollar to repair and even in terrible games should not lose you credits. You will need to get used to being placed in high tier games. The ELC is the big gun option of the bunch and I have side penetrated Tier 9 heavies from downtown using standard shells in it. You will have excellent camouflage to work with and learning to shoot and scoot won’t be painless, but it will be cheap.

Many people like the KV-1 as it is an exceedingly solid tank for tier 5 and very forgiving of mistakes. It has good earning potential because of its staying power. Longer life means more time to shoot things in a match. For this same reason the T-150 at tier 6 is also a solid choice, provided you play conservatively against high tier opponents. Part of the farming dynamic is figuring what you’re willing to deal with. If you absolutely hate dealing with tier 8 tanks then farming with a tier 6 is a bad idea.

If you’re looking for more balanced approaches the “game changer” tanks are mostly tier 5 and 6 as well. These include but are not limited to: T-34, T-34-85, M4 Sherman and variants, and the Pz IV. They are average tanks that don’t cost much to repair and played correctly can come out well ahead on credits.

Any Tier 8 premium should be a great credit farming tank if you’re going the cash route. The Type 59 is reported to be the king of credit farming but is no longer regularly available as of this writing. There are a variety of other premium tanks available at lower tiers but the credit earning potential is limited by tier and hull and the actual credit boost per hull is not always published. If you’re going the mid-tier route see Knobbers review of Tier 5 premiums for additional details.

The most important thing in selecting farm tanks is to select the ones you can tolerate playing frequently. You will need to fit your playstyle in this as nearly everyone has encountered that reportedly fantastic tank they just can’t stand. Farming credits in a tank that infuriates you is no way to go through life, and to maximize profits you should look into keeping a dedicated crew with the farm team as well as tricking them out in the best gear available. They are your moneymakers and any way you can improve their efficiency will earn you credits faster.


The depot is where all your scrap goes. Anything you don’t sell when selling a tank, and any modules you upgrade from end up here. A base chassis comes with all the modules included and you are neither discounted for those you already own, nor is it possible to purchase a chassis without them. Tanks come ready to roll minus ammunition and consumables, and must at all times be ready to run so extra copies of the crap modules will pile up over time. No buying that turretless M4 on the cheap, sorry.

When in need of a quick cash infusion for an emergency purchase, raiding the depot and mass selling extra modules is a good way to generate extra income if you’re pressed for time to farm the credits. Care should be taken to plan ahead in this or you will end up wasting credits in the process since sold modules only return half their price. You can right click on modules to see what they’re compatible with and avoid selling things that will give your next tank purchase an immediate upgrade option. Suspensions and turrets are typically unique for every tank and can thus be sold off without a second thought. Guns, Engines, and Radios should be checked before sale to make sure you will not be using them as an upgrade for a future tank purchase.

Often overlooked is ammunition for tanks you no longer own or plan to use. This also piles up in the depot where it can be parceled out and sold. Generally this is a lower end endeavor though as few people buy more standard ammunition than needed and even a full load for most tanks won’t be worth much.

Avoid selling Equipment and consumables as these are expensive and versatile. Also try to avoid selling anything during a sale unless you are absolutely certain what you are selling is not currently on sale as this results in 25% credit recovery rather than 50%.

Note that gold equipment and consumables sold from the depot result in 50% of the gold price in credits, not gold, being reclaimed. Sadly one cannot sell the free premium consumables given during major events in order to expand their garage.


Events are your time for major savings and earnings. If you’re comfortable with what you have, stockpiling your credits and gold for a sale event is a fantastic way to stretch your budget. Events are going on all the time that offer discounts on various tanks and equipment. The big ones generally coincide with holidays and historical battles but it’s impossible to predict what exactly will be offered.

It seems like something is always on sale but chasing after every deal will leave you bankrupt. Here’s where you have to pick and choose what to spend your credits on. Sales only last a few days and if you have warning you can do slightly more than without, but unless you’re camped in front of your computer all weekend there’s not much you can do about being 25,000 XP short for the sale tank.

Recently, some sale events have been accompanied by income boosts for the tanks on sale making it convenient to spend more than you’d like, confident that even with terrible play and a stock chassis you will make some credits with it. Most of the time these sales will follow a specific tree ensuring you can really only take advantage of one tank purchase due to the grind needed to unlock subsequent tanks.

If you can wait for major holidays or battles there’s a chance that even garage slots and barracks beds may be half off. If you’re looking to acquire a huge stable of tanks, waiting for one of these sales can double your investment. Less rare, but by no means common, are half off equipment and consumables sales. If you’ve been stockpiling a war chest like a good little sociopath blowing it all on small repair kits, gold ammunition for credits, and discount shell rammers will save you a ton of cash in the long run.


If you prefer a tight garage you can always set your favorite tanks to Primary and check the show only Primary tanks box. Keeping old tanks around for events isn’t a bad idea. Unless you really need the cash hold on to them since you’ll only get 50% return anyway and have to barrack or dismiss the crew. As long as you have a single garage slot open you can buy a tank so there’s little incentive to selling off old hulls that might get a bonus cash weekend until you get up into the higher tiers, and even then you may find the next tank in the chain isn’t to your liking.

A well oiled crew is a major advantage for any tank and once you begin getting crew upwards of even 81% it’s wise to keep them for retraining if you can spare the beds. Obviously it’s much quicker to grind a retrained crew from 90% back to 100% than it is to train new recruits to proficiency. This won’t happen much at the lower tiers as you will make the next tank available long before you get enough crew XP to make saving them worthwhile but once you get to tier 4 or 5 that dynamic changes.

Try to stockpile a nest egg and sit on it for an equipment sale. It will seem like you’re saving more than you are when your repair kits come from your depot rather than the store, and remembering you got each of those for half price takes the sting out of using them whenever convenient. Remember to double check the options in the store if you’re missing things. Everything that is unlocked can be purchased and stockpiled from the store but may be invisible if something odd like “show only modules mounted on tanks” is checked.

The same can be said of tanks if you’re climbing multiple trees and can afford to wait for a sale. Tank sales are generally half off which isn’t much at first but once you get into vehicles costing a half million credits or more you can appreciate the savings.

If nothing else try to get a camouflage net, toolbox, and binocular telescope to equip on new tanks. They may not be right for the tank all the time but demounting and moving them is free, and they certainly can’t hurt to have.

Try to get an idea of the play style of a tree before climbing it so you can plan your purchases. I lost a bit of cash and training time when I moved a crew from a sniping tank to a hull designed for brawling. You cannot force a tank to be good at something it’s not designed for regardless of equipment and crew skills. Your application will always be sub-optimal. You’re better off starting with a fresh 75% crew and retaining your well trained crew in a tank you know you can farm credits in. Check the tank descriptions and strategy guides people have posted to see if the tank is right for you, and by extension your existing crews.

Hopefully this advice will help you stretch your credits and gold a bit farther with WoT and make playing a more enjoyable experience.


Where am I? What Plane/Mech/Tank/Ship am I in?